23 March 2018

Swiss Meringues


The Art.
    One of the baking projects I wanted to accomplish this winter was to make a beautiful drip cake piled high with macarons, meringues, and candies. The end result was my Candyland Drip Cake and I had a lot of fun putting it together. It was also very intensive, since I wanted to make the meringues and macarons myself. I made a previous post featuring Italian meringues, but this time around I wanted the glossy, delicate shape of Swiss meringues piped with a French tip. The crisp texture and airiness of these cookies accompany tea or coffee perfectly. I suggest making them on a weekend while you are doing your chores, since they require a couple hours in the oven.

The Science.
    The difference between Italian and Swiss meringues is that Italian meringue is beaten at room temperature, whereas Swiss meringue is heated. When egg whites are beaten at high speeds, the albumin protein in the egg whites begins to bind together and aggregate [1]. This traps little air bubbles incorporated by the whisk, making a fluffy meringue. Cream of tartar further aids in the protein aggregation by stabilizing the tangled proteins. In the case of Swiss meringue, the heat provides energy to the aggregation reactions and results in a stiffer meringue with smaller bubbles. 
    I also wanted to share with you an unexpected finding I had regarding food color. The very first batch of meringues I made was dyed with my staple Wilton gel icing colors. I was surprised to find that the blue meringues were cracked and full of large bubbles, while the white ones were fine. Of course, my chemist of a husband took one look at them and said it was because the gel food coloring was cooking up faster than the meringue, causing some parts to shrink rapidly and pull the cookies apart. So, my suggestion to all of you is to use standard liquid food coloring if you want your cookies to come out right!


The Recipe.

Meringue cookies: (Makes 50) 
3 large egg whites
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
3/4 cup superfine granulated sugar
liquid food color (optional)

    Preheat oven to 200°F. Bring a medium saucepan with 1 inch of water to a simmer; this will be the bottom part of your double boiler. Combine all ingredients (except the food color) in a large heat-proof bowl. Place the bowl over the steaming saucepan and whip the egg whites on high speed with a hand mixer for 5 minutes. Be sure to have an oven mitt on the hand that is stabilizing the bowl so the steam doesn't burn you. The meringue should make stiff peaks on your beaters when you pull them out of the bowl. Remove the bowl from the heat and continue to beat on high speed until the meringue cools to room temperature, about 2 minutes. This is when you may whisk in the food color if you wish.
     Cover two baking sheets with parchment paper, sticking the paper down at the corners with a dab of meringue. Spoon meringue into an piping bag fitted with a 6B tip, and pipe 1-inch stars onto the baking sheets, 1/2 inch apart.  Bake 2 hours, switching the top and bottom racks halfway through. After baking, leave cookies in the oven to cool 1 hour with the door held ajar a couple inches with a spoon handle. Meringues can be stored at room temperature in an air-tight container.



1. O Chef, "Beating Egg Whites into Submission." http://www.ochef.com/223.htm

22 March 2018

Candyland Drip Cake

The Art.
    This is my first foray into drip cakes, and I'm kicking myself that it took me so long! I was intimidated by all the beautiful cakes I had seen with bright icing dripping down in perfect little streams, and I imagined that my attempt would either be a runny mess or a clumpy defeat. However, I am happy to report I got it on the first try! You can, too, with the right chocolate and a few easy tricks. My favorite part about drip cakes is that they are usually piled high with other treats, such as these airy Swiss Meringues and Raspberry Macarons. The recipes for these are coming soon as well, so stay tuned!

The Science.
    I did quite a bit of research on the best way to make chocolate ganache before I began, but I was frustrated that everyone had wildly different recipes. In the end I concluded that it comes down to the type of chocolate that you use, and whether you want a more matte ganache like this one, or a shiny one. I used Ghirardelli white chocolate melting wafers for this cake because they taste absolutely amazing and I wanted something that was easy to melt and work with. However, you can use a wide variety of chocolates or melting wafers for your cake. The trick is determining the ratio of chocolate to cream that is best for your particular chocolate. For my Ghirardelli wafers, it was about 3 volumes of chocolate wafers to 1 volume of cream. For harder bar chocolate, like dark chocolate, it will be closer to equal amounts. Unfortunately I can't give a hard and fast rule for this, you will have to take some time to melt your favorite chocolate and play with the ratios until you get it right. This is why you always buy extra chocolate and cream-- in addition to the fact that chocolate does tend to mysteriously disappear when I'm in the room!

The Recipe.

Cake:
   For this cake, I made a 4-layer spice cake using 6x3inch round tins. The recipe for spice cake can be found here. I then leveled the layers flat with a knife and assembled and iced the cake with a batch of buttercream icing. Place the cake in the freezer for at least an hour before you add your drip ganache, so it doesn't stream down the cake too quickly.

Drip Ganache:
6oz. Ghirardelli White Chocolate Melting Wafers
2oz. Heavy Cream

    Combine chocolate and cream in a microwave safe bowl, and microwave in 30 second intervals, stirring between, until just melted. It is important to wait for the ganache to cool slightly before you spoon it onto the cake. It has reached the right temperature when it drips slowly off of your spoon, like thick honey.
    To begin decorating your drip cake, use a teaspoon to pick up some ganache, and slowly pour it onto the cake, about 1/4 inch away from the edge. Stop pouring slightly before the drip reaches the length you want it to be, as it will continue to drip down. Continue to do this at regular intervals around the cake, varying the length of the drips. Finally, use the remaining ganache to flood the top of
 the cake, but be careful not to spill it over the edges.
    To decorate this cake, I used a variety of shapes, textures, and sizes to make a visually interesting pile of sweets. It's very in vogue to place macarons on top of cakes right now, and if you don't have time to make your own you can buy them in most every color to match your desired color scheme. I liked adding the Swiss meringues piped with a French tip because the star shapes provide contrast against the round cookies and candies. It's also always a good idea to have smaller candies that you can use to fill in gaps once you get the big cookies on there. The best part is when you serve the cake and each piece gets an extra treat!